Somewhere Else

Whitehaven Rugby League

Many parts of England are a closed book to me, even after a lifetime of visiting for work and leisure.

Such is Cumbria, in the northwest.

The Trout in Cockermouth

I expanded my horizon by making an overnight trip to North Cumbria in July 2024. Apart from a strong desire to escape my usual routines – even briefly – my motivation was to see TO XIII play rugby at Whitehaven.

For those who do not move in these circles TO XIII is the top rugby league team in Toulouse and the club plays in the (English) Championship. The Championship is the second tier of English rugby league. Dragons Catalans from Perpignan play in the top tier – Superleague.

Pre-Match

I have history with TO XIII from my time working in Toulouse and have gone to see them play before – in Toulouse and in England.

Whitehaven is a 3 hour drive for me, but most of it is on motorway and so it is relatively painless as these things go. I would have preferred train travel, but with strikes all over the place these days I was not about to risk my (very) short break being marred by travel disruption.

The trip was crammed with highlights…

A Friday afternoon pint of local beer at The Trout in Cockermouth, sitting in the warm(ish) sun by the River Derwent. It helped to ease the long drive south out of my system.

Staying overnight in historic Moresby Hall – so English it was almost like a theme park.

Moresby Hall

Visiting Whitehaven Parkrun on Saturday morning. I ran well considering I did not know the course, and the locals were all super friendly (Parkrun is like that, but still).

Whitehaven Parkrun

A lovely fika at Howling Wolf overlooking Whitehaven Marina – great place, excellent coffee and a wonderful cinnamon bun.

Howling Wolf at Whitehaven Marina

A pint of local beer at Whitehaven Miners Welfare Club before the rugby. I was the only customer for about 30 minutes. It was slightly unreal but very enjoyable.

Whitehaven Miners Welfare Club

The rugby itself – 24 points each with 10 minutes left, but then TO XIII found a little bit extra to grab the win and travel home happy.

I travelled home happy too.

ⓒ iain taylor, 2024

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